The brilliant sandstones of Cape Kiwanda are one of the Oregon Coast’s most dazzling features. Offshore is the monolith that has protected the soft strata of the Cape from being extinguished by ocean weather, the “other” Haystack Rock, a classic basalt sea stack. Behind the Cape is the Great Dune, a massive hill of mudstone and sandstone layers cloaked in drifting sand with a toupée of salal and stunted Sitka spruce. Views from here extend north to the spectacular headland of Cape Lookout. On the beach, there is plenty of action on a sunny day at Oregon’s main dory launch site. This walk can be combined with the Nestucca Spit Loop Hike for a longer day. You can also begin the beach hike at the vast and popular Cape Kiwanda Trailhead, but starting at the Pacific Avenue Trailhead gives access to a stretch of beach where no vehicles are permitted. From the parking area at the west end of Pacific Avenue, walk up the dunes to get commanding views and then drop to the beach. The mile between here and the main access point to the beach farther north is vehicle free. Get great vistas of Haystack Rock to your left. As you walk north, the rock’s little ponytail on its north face comes into view. Seabirds roost and nest here—it is part of the Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge—and you may see sea kayakers heading out to circle the rock. Haystack is 90 feet higher than the Haystack Rock at Cannon Beach, but is also much farther offshore. It used to be named Chief Kiawanda Rock, after the leader of the Nestucca tribe at the time Euro-Americans settled here. As you near the Cape, watch also for Pacific City’s dorymen launching their boats in the waves or surfing in after a few hours fishing. Cars can park on the beach in the dory launch area, accessed from the Cape Kiwanda Trailhead. The Cape’s brilliant orange and yellow sandstone layers loom ahead. They have survived the onslaught of the ocean because of the “shield” of Haystack Rock. At low tide, spend time on the rocks at the base of the cliffs or checking out th
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